Here is what I do when I make a Lolita skirt. To achieve the "bell" effect, a petticoat must be worn. I will perhaps explain how I made mine later, if that would be of help to any of you.
1. Choose the fabric. The options are endless: cute border prints, darker Victorian shades, baby fabric (Be sure to check the children's fabric section!), etc., etc.
2. Ornamentation. Lace, buttons, ruffles of the same fabric as the skirt, rosettes, ribbon, bows, etc. The sky is the limit! You will, according to my method, need a 7 inch long skirt zipper. I always get one that coordinates with the skirt fabric. You will also need a large button (1/2" - 5/8" wide perhaps) for the waistband of the skirt.
3. Cutting at the fabric store. (Oh my gosh.) For my skirts, I get at least 2 yards of fabric, and sometimes more (for ruffles or bows). 2 1/2 yards of lace generally will be enough for the lower hem of the skirt, however, this will only go around the lower hem ONCE. If you would like more than one lace ruffle, please double or triple that amount according to your needs.
4. THE PATTERN. READY? wink
Okay, so you don't have to be afraid of this part! I must state that it is very important that you are wide awake and thinking clearly when you do this, because once you take your sewing shears to the fabric, it cannot be undone!
(1.) Now, the skirt in itself is easy enough. Determine how long you want the skirt to be. Take your measuring tape and measure from your natural waist line (usually about 2 inches above your belly button) to where you want it to hit your leg or knee, holding the tape against you as you bend over, or you can use a mirror to help. My favorite skirt length is about 25 inches.
(2.) Add to the length you just determined 1 1/4 inches (5/8" + 5/8" seam allowance for the top and bottom). So if you were me, the number you would have now is 26 1/4 inches.
(3.) Cutting out the skirt: You will notice that the fabric you have laid out is folded lengthwise already from the store. Please leave it this way for cutting. Lay down your measuring tape along the lengthwise fold of the fabric and mark with a pencil the length of your skirt, remembering to leave on that 1 1/4 inches for seam allowances. Now do the same for the opposite side (i.e. the one that has two bound edges; they ARE NOT raw edges; they usually have a solid color strip along them because this is where the fabric loom binds off the cloth). Connect these marks with a straight line. You may have to make a mark down the middle of the fabric so your ruler can reach. Cut along this line.
Repeat the above process for back of skirt.
The skirt will be gathered of course, and it will be as wide as the fabric is off the bolt. Most fabrics range from 40 to 45 inches wide.
(4.) Cutting out the waistband:
This is very easy. Do you know your waist measurement? If you don't, measure around the smallest part of your waist. Don't make it too tight - you will look and feel fat if you do. (Trust me, I know.) Now add 2 3/4 inches to your waist measurement ( 5/8" + 5/8" for seam allowances and 3/4" + 3/4" for overlapping). Your waistband will be 1 1/2 inches wide when folded. It is a single thickness piece.
Here are the measurements for your waistband piece:
4 1/4" width x [insert your waist measurement + 2 1/4"].
~Instructions~
EGL : Elegant Gothic Lolita
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