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Radio-controlled (or R/C) cars are usually categorized as either "toy" or "hobby" grade. Remote-controlled vehicles differ from radio-controlled by the presence of a wire cable connecting the transmitter and the car, limiting their movement. This article focuses on the radio-controlled vehicle category, both toy and hobby grades.

Cars are powered by various sources. Electric cars are powered by small but powerful electric motors and rechargeable nickel-cadmium(NI-CAD), nickel metal hydride(NI-MH), or lithium polymer cells(li-po). There are also brushed or brushless electric motors. (fast and HOLY ****)

Most fuel-powered models use glow plug engines, small internal combustion engines fueled by a special mixture of nitromethane, methanol, and oil (in most cases a blend of castor oil and synthetic oil)*one mouthful=DEAD*.

These are referred to as "nitro" cars. Recently, exceptionally large models have been introduced that are powered by small gasoline engines, similar to weedwhacker motors, which use a mix of oil and gasoline. (these are usually WAY OVER weight and VERY slow 25-30mph)

Electric cars are generally considered easier for the novice to work with compared to fuel-driven models, but can be equally as complex at the higher budget and skill levels.

In both of these categories, both on-road and off-road vehicles are available. Off-road models, which are built with fully-functional off-road suspensions, can be used on various types of terrain. In comparison, on-road cars, which generally have a limited or non-existent suspension, are strictly limited to smooth, paved surfaces.

Enter My AVI concept contest!

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Fuel-powered engines allow model cars to reach impressive speeds unmodified(45+MPH). Maximum power is generally achieved at medium to high speeds, and a slightly slower throttle response than electrically powered vehicles is to be expected. Electric motors effectively produces instantaneous torque, where nitro engines, like full-sized gasoline engines, take time for the engine to spool up and for the clutch to engage. Nitro- (and fuel) powered cars may be refueled and returned to action in a few seconds, as opposed to electrics needing to remove the body shell and battery fasteners to replace a discharged battery. Nitro cars are completely air cooled, and may be run continuously with no need to take breaks for cooling down. Nitro cars tend to be larger than electric cars on average, because affordable high-performance electronics are only generally available in 1:10 scale and smaller. However, scale equivalents do exist in both nitro and electric forms, such as the (AE) RC10T4 and the GT2.

Nitro-powered cars operate like full-sized fuel vehicles more than their electric counterparts do. The sound of the engine and design of the drive train are main selling points to nitro enthusiasts. However, their exhaust contains unburned oil, which usually ends up coating the chassis. This, in turn, requires more cleaning than an electric-powered equivalent. Cleaning is usually achieved by the use of compressed air blowers and solvents (such as denatured alcohol). Tuning a fuel-powered vehicle requires learning to maintain optimum performance and fuel economy(because at $20+ a GALLON you want as much as yo can get out of it), and to minimize engine wear and overheating, even in ready-to-run vehicles.

Because of higher stock performance and their ability to be driven for longer periods of time, mechanical wear in nitro vehicles is generally greater than in electric vehicles. In addition, the increased speed and weight of fuel-powered vehicles generally lead to higher speed collisions, causing greater damage to the collided vehicles, and a greater degree of safety concern needs to be taken into account. However, nitro vehicles are more durable due to stronger components to sustain the greater stresses of more power.(LOTS OF METAL)

NOW FOR SOME R/C history


The beginnings of model racing

Small, nitromethane-powered engines originally entered the market in the 1940s. At the time, there was insufficient technology to control an engine-powered model car other than on a tether. "Tether cars", or "spin dizzies", were capable of speeds upwards of 70 mph (113 km/h), but merely ran in a circle from the tether. In the late 1960s, the first miniaturized solid state radio control systems became available, which allowed a model car to have servo-controlled steering, throttle, and brake functionality that could be remotely controlled from a radio-control transmitter unit. This allowed model cars to be able to run on a racetrack with the ability for precise control in a similar manner as with a full-sized vehicle.


Pricing a car setup
this may acually shock some of you!!!


the average Nitro powered R/C lets say a 1/8th nitro Tuggy (OFNA jammin X1-crt) will cost you about $500+ from a hobby shop.+ then you have to buy Fuel $19-30 A GALLON a battery pack(1500MAh hump pack $19.99) and charger $40.00 with a RTR kit your going to want a BETTER radio so new radio gear (spectrum 2.4GHz) $300, after the engine break-in you`ll most likely need new tires ($60-100 for all 4) and a few weeks later your nice new body will be torn to shreds so a new body $20-30.After ALL that you`ve spent $958 + Tax on an R/c car, and thats CHEAP compared to what some pro racers pay for a car(but they have sponsors that buy their cars)




AND PICS FINALLY


A 1/10th nitro Stadium truck compared to a 1/8th nitro buggy





1/8 nitro buggy with a .28





1/10th Nitro Stadium truck with a .15

and ! shall not read that! muhahahahaha!!

neutral how dare you [/disgust]

*disgust*

you need to post pics of the maxx im uploading pics right now mrgreen

mine cool







xd