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 Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 5:31 am
XP sounds like you're quite -very- good.
Got any pics of you in action ?
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Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 8:47 pm
Yeah, film pics. I've been after my mom to dig them up for over a month now, but she won't tell me where they are, she's just like "remind me and I'll find them, remind me and I'll find them..."
x_x
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Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 9:54 pm
 This is me and my aunt's horse.
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Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 2:26 pm
XD my mums the same =w =;
Looks good but it's very blurry ^^;
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Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 10:26 pm
Yeah, it's a video screenshot, and VERY zoomed in, because I don't let people in the proximity when I'm training a horse.
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Posted: Wed May 23, 2007 6:21 pm
Oh, I just must throw my two cents into this dead thread!
It's about the whole, bringing you reins out v.s. in when turning.
Mel, do you actually know how the snaffle bit works? How it works in there mouth and the pressure points in which it applies when being used correctly? Well, either way, I'm sure you know that it's a training bit so it's very veristile in it's ring movement.
Well, when I'm first teaching a horse to bend well with a snaffle bit it, it's actually better to bring your hand out and not pull, but guide the horses head in the direction you want to go. When you pull directly back it put more pressure in the outside of the mouth and slightly pinchs BOTH outter lips. Which can easily confuse a learning horse.
Pulling strait back on the snaffle isn't wrong by any means, it's just advanced (I'm not saying, like, super advanced, but I'm refering if a horse doesn't know how to bend. ;p).
But if you do decide to pull out to guide the horse at first, make sure it's in a snaffle! If you use a shanked bit it'll just get ugly. >xU
(I'm not a fan of long shanks if you can't tell).
So that's just a breif little blurb of mine. ;P
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Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2007 7:54 pm
Oh I know how it works. I preffer a straight snaffle, anyways xDDD
Trust me lol
What you want to do is keep your fingers half-flexed. When you flex one set of fingers, loosen up on your other hand of fingers. the bit should shift and so should the horse's head. This works with both straight and jointed snaffles, and better in jointed because then the shift is greater and you need more subtle movements. Hence enhancing your movements.
If you bring your hand out and away from your body and the horse's body, you are comprimising your perfect balance. And perfect balance is the key to a good barrel run. Because if you're in perfect balance and move in perfect balance, then your horse can use your perfect balance to keep its own perfect balance which means no misteps or stumbles lol.
Also means tighter turns xD
the less shifting you do, the better.
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Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 9:18 pm
x.Marsh[mel]low.x Oh I know how it works. I preffer a straight snaffle, anyways xDDD Trust me lol What you want to do is keep your fingers half-flexed. When you flex one set of fingers, loosen up on your other hand of fingers. the bit should shift and so should the horse's head. This works with both straight and jointed snaffles, and better in jointed because then the shift is greater and you need more subtle movements. Hence enhancing your movements. If you bring your hand out and away from your body and the horse's body, you are comprimising your perfect balance. And perfect balance is the key to a good barrel run. Because if you're in perfect balance and move in perfect balance, then your horse can use your perfect balance to keep its own perfect balance which means no misteps or stumbles lol. Also means tighter turns xD the less shifting you do, the better.
3nodding
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Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2007 6:06 pm
Toya Joka There are some good ideas there. But one thing, Kaji Onna, you say it is not good for the horse to assume what to do. I say that if I can let go of my reins and let my horse go round the race on his own I'll let him! If you're horse turns in front of a barrel you have a respect problem. So work on respect, not on the trajectory.
And you loose time between the moment you tell him to and the moment he does it. Even if it is only one second. So why not teach the horse so he knows what he has to do and when and leave him to it.
About the large turns thing. One thing you can do is go round the barrel 2 3 or maybe 5 times. Keep turning ( and slowing down for this ) until your horse is very close to the barrel, and then stop him if you can, fast enough without pulling in his mouth or whatever disconforting. You want the horse to understand that when he gets close to the barrel he gets rest. Which is motivating for him. The end result is that, while heading towards the barrel, your horse is thinking: "Ok I gotta turn round that barrel as fast as I can and as close as I can to it". He knows what he's got to do. This will avoid the horse drifting away on the second part of the turn.
If you have any questions I'll willingly answer.
Edit - I forgot to say something about the bending of the head. With some horses only ask for him to bend is head after he knows exactly how to turn around the barrel. For others this will actually help him to learn. Just feel what your horse needs. But Don't try and go as fast as possible if you have not got a horse bending correclty. You will not get the best results.
Marsh[mel]ow : You seem to have good commen sense ^^ leting your horse assume it now what to do can be dangerous. the only time I would do it would be giving a horse it's head if we some how got lost . if somethig spooked it while you weren't in compleate control... the horse could bolt, you could fall. you could be seriously injured, paralized. something could happen to your horse. I would rather stay in control sad
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Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 7:09 pm
horsepersonel Toya Joka There are some good ideas there. But one thing, Kaji Onna, you say it is not good for the horse to assume what to do. I say that if I can let go of my reins and let my horse go round the race on his own I'll let him! If you're horse turns in front of a barrel you have a respect problem. So work on respect, not on the trajectory.
And you loose time between the moment you tell him to and the moment he does it. Even if it is only one second. So why not teach the horse so he knows what he has to do and when and leave him to it.
About the large turns thing. One thing you can do is go round the barrel 2 3 or maybe 5 times. Keep turning ( and slowing down for this ) until your horse is very close to the barrel, and then stop him if you can, fast enough without pulling in his mouth or whatever disconforting. You want the horse to understand that when he gets close to the barrel he gets rest. Which is motivating for him. The end result is that, while heading towards the barrel, your horse is thinking: "Ok I gotta turn round that barrel as fast as I can and as close as I can to it". He knows what he's got to do. This will avoid the horse drifting away on the second part of the turn.
If you have any questions I'll willingly answer.
Edit - I forgot to say something about the bending of the head. With some horses only ask for him to bend is head after he knows exactly how to turn around the barrel. For others this will actually help him to learn. Just feel what your horse needs. But Don't try and go as fast as possible if you have not got a horse bending correclty. You will not get the best results.
Marsh[mel]ow : You seem to have good commen sense ^^ leting your horse assume it now what to do can be dangerous. the only time I would do it would be giving a horse it's head if we some how got lost . if somethig spooked it while you weren't in compleate control... the horse could bolt, you could fall. you could be seriously injured, paralized. something could happen to your horse. I would rather stay in control sad
All those things that you said could happen if you let the horse have his head could quite as easily happen with direct contact.
But I do agree with having your horse assume things isn't the best of ideas. Gets them into an icky routine and if you change something it could 'spook' em slightly. ;p I like to keep my horse on his toes and wondering what I'll ask of him next. Keep them entertained.
xd
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Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 8:27 pm
Also, I'd like to add, spooking has nothing to do with the dangers of an automated horse. A horse would spook at any time, and the fact that it is automated will add nothing to the danger factor, because the routine that it has let itself fall into is destroyed in the moment of spooking.
The worst thing that comes out of an automated horse is that the horse refuses to listen to the rider because it assumes that it knows what it's doing, and wants to get it over and done with. Therefore it is assuming that it knows what you're going to tell it to do, and therefore you have no control if, say, the ground is slippery around the barrel turn, and you need to check your horse slower than if the ground was bone dry.
That's why in training it's important to work with many patterns, and both directions of a barrel pattern. Even mix up how you run it, and do the far one first or second instead of last.
Again. How you're riding when your horse is automated should not differ from when you're riding when it's not. The trail horses I ride know the trail like they know their own selves, but I still keep the reins under a direct contact and I still guide them through it.
So with that understanding, it shouldn't be any more dangerous for a horse to spook when you're riding it normally, or when it's on autopiolet.
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Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 8:45 pm
I disagree highly with just letting your horse running around the barrels without any cues from you.
Not because of the points mentioned by Horseperonel.
But because, when you're letting your horse run around the barrels all by themselves, you are no longer riding your horse and you are no longer a horseman. You are simply a passenger along for the ride.
And then the horse can start to anticipate what's gonna happen. Since they're basically running themselves, they may turn too wide, or too sharp and knock a barrel over.
You should always keep your horse fresh, and never anticipate things, but maybe performing the course a different direction, going around one barrel twice. Or even dumping the whole clover leaf pattern and spiraling around a barrel. Starting out very wide, and then coming in closer in each stride.
Then, when you give your horse the cues, you may call yourself a horseman once again. For you're the one who's actually doing the "driving".
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Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 5:38 pm
I have read that you have to teach your horse to "rate". In a nut shell, if you dont ride, they dont run. If you are really riding, they should really be going. once you stop with the go, go, go!, they should come to a compleate stop. also, you dont have to set the barrels (or objects in place of barrels) up in a clover leaf pattern. I think the their are more tips somewhere at www.horsechannel.com
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Reply
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